The show may be over, but there’s still a chance for you to recreate all those lavish Toronto Fashion Week looks from the runway. As is becoming a longstanding tradition backstage at WMCFW, Maybelline’s head makeup artist and maven, Grace Lee, was once again charged with primping and preening every single face that walked the runway. Wondering how she did it and, better yet, how can you recreate the same beauty looks? Check out this handy guide to every backstage trend, from Mikhael Kale’s spider eyes to the iconic Narces lip.
Mikhael Kale: The collection is “whimsical, but a bit boyish and structured,” according to Kale, and Grace’s beauty look is modern and muted, aiming to reflect the clothing. “The skin was kept very natural and very fair, almost like she’s never seen the sun. Mikhael is a huge fan of dewy skin, and there’s nothing better than BB Cream to give that perfect freshness,” says Grace. “Eyelashes are exaggerated with lots of mascara. We cut up false lashes into pieces and placed them for dimension and length. The lashes to me reflect a bit of the whimsical side of Mikhael’s style.”
Line Knitwear: The designers describe the inspiration for this line as “a mythical forest.” This collection is soft and very feminine, with an added emphasis on bright colours rather than the neutral shades that they tend to favour. Taking a cue from the inspiration, Grace created “an otherworldly graphic silver eye, accented with a matte, bright pink lip courtesy of Maybelline New York Color Sensational Vivids LipColor in Vivid Rose.” Color Whisper by Color Sensational LipColor in Faint for Fuschia was brushed onto the entire lip, and Vivid Rose was layered on top and concentrated in the centre for a three dimensional effect.
David Dixon: David Dixon is the designer that knows how to do “pretty.” “Pretty is rooted in this girl’s DNA,” says Grace. “She’s fresh, feminine and romantic.” A flawless, naturally radiant complexion was created with Maybelline New York Dream Fresh BB Cream all over the face. Grace flushed the apples of the cheeks by mixing two products: Baby Lips SPF 20 Lip Moisturizing Balm in Quenched and Face Studio Master Glaze in Just Pinched Pink. A similar colour was dabbed onto the lips for a monochromatic look — a pretty dose of pink courtesy of SuperStay 14HR Lipstick in Eternal Rose.
Melissa Nepton: For A/W 2014, Mélissa Nepton showed fresh, urban sportswear with an Asian influence. To complement this collection, Grace created a look that was “very clean, very fresh and slightly dewy” using a “beautiful, clean palette.” She highlighted the high planes of the face with a combination of Maybelline New York Baby Lips SPF 20 Lip Moisturizing Balm in Quenched and EyeStudio Color Tattoo Pure Pigments Loose Powder Shadow in Barely Branded. To create what she calls “invisible liner,” Grace dotted black pencil between the top lashes before blending it into the lashline and coating the top lashes with new Pumped Up! Colossal Mascara. Lips were topped with nude lipstick to keep the look clean.
Joe Fresh: It seems that the polar vortex has influenced more than just our outerwear; like Pink Tartan, Grace wanted the girls to look as if they’d just come in from the cold. After being prepped with Maybelline New York Baby Skin Instant Pore Eraser, Grace perfected the skin using Dream Fresh BB Cream and added Bouncy Blush in Pink Plum to the lower cheeks to mimic flushed, cold skin. For the eyes, Grace mixed Baby Lips and Color Tattoo 24HR Cream Gel Shadow in Too Cool for an icy veil of shimmer. When it came to the lashes, one mascara simply wasn’t enough so Grace layered Volum’ Express The Rocket and Pumped Up! Colossal — her two favourites — for some serious volume. She finished the look with one of The Buffs nude lipsticks — each model’s shade was chosen to match her natural lip colour.
Pink Tartan: The beauty for this ultra-luxe collection was inspired by a modern-day Verushka braving the polar vortex for a glamorous night out. With elements from iconic 60s beauty looks, Grace worked brown Lasting Drama Gel Liner into the crease, and blended it out for a softer take on the classic “banana boat” liner. She blended Crayon Kohl Liner by Color Show in Chocolate Chip into the top and bottom lash lines and added the same pencil in Barely Beige to the waterline. Grace encouraged her team to be “very generous” when applying multiple layers of Pumped Up! Colossal mascara. To create a wintery sun-kissed look, Grace worked FitMe Bronzer into the skin and blended Master Glaze in Pink Fever into the cheeks to give the effect of wind burn. For the final touch, Grace used Color Tattoo Cream Gel Shadow in Too Cool to add a frosty highlight to the skin. And that perfect nude lip? It’s all about The Buffs by Color Sensational in Nude Lust.
Rudsak: When creating this look, Grace envisioned “the kind of girl who would hang out with the Rolling Stones.” She created a rocker chic smoky eye by lining the inner rims with Crayon Kohl Liner by Color Show in Ultra Black before blending it across the lids. She topped the lids with ExpertWear Eyeshadows in Made for Mocha and Tastefully Taupe along with a layer of Baby Lips in Quenched to create a sheer wash of colour. Lashes were coated with Volum’ Express Pumped Up! Colossal Mascara while brows got the Cara Delevigne treatment with Define-a-Brow eyebrow pencil and clear Great Lash mascara. For the final touch, Grace painted The Buffs by ColorSensational lipstick in Nude Lust onto lips.
Soia & Kyo: According to Grace, this look was “all about making the girls look as fresh and clean as possible.” Grace surrounded the eyes with a subtle bronze glow by blending a combination of Master Glaze in Warm Nude and SuperStay 14HR Lipstick (yes, lipstick) in Beige for Good into the crease and lower lash line. Skin was warmed with a hint of Master Glaze in Just Pinched Pink on the apples of the cheeks. To finish off the look, Grace swept a coat of Volum’ Express Pumped Up! Colossal Mascara onto lashes, brushed brows up with clear Great Lash Mascara and dabbed a bit of The Buffs lipstick in Nude Lust onto the lips.
Matthew Gallagher: Taking cues from the antique family photos that inspired the collection, Grace wanted the makeup to recall the sepia and vanilla tones of those portraits. She started with a light shade of Dream Fresh BB Cream to make the skin pale and creamy. Grace kept the eyes soft, lightening dark brows with concealer and highlighting the lids with Expertwear Eyeshadow in Vanilla and Baby Lips in Quenched. For the lips, Grace combined SuperStay 14HR lipstick in Wine and Forever with Crayon Kohl Liner by Color Show in Ultra Black. Set against a milky complexion, this dark lip made a dramatic statement – the perfect fashion week finale.
Narces: My favourite for the obvious emphasis on a statement lip! To match the flirty femininity of the collection’s glamorous dresses, Grace chose a classic red to take centre stage. She stuck to subtle shading for the eyes with Expertwear Eyeshadow in Earthly Taupe applied into the crease. She brushed brows up with clear Great Lash Mascara and coated top and bottom lashes with Pumped Up! Colossal Mascara. She mixed three products to give skin a luminous glow: Baby Lips in Quenched, Expertwear Eyeshadow in Vanilla and Color Tattoo in Barely Branded. The crowning glory of the look – the lips — was created with Color Sensational Vivids Lipcolor in On Fire Red.
Images via Maybelline/ROI